Final fruits, roots and chicken patterns

 

Mild temperate climate nuts, mid autumn fruit. (text to come)

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Gevuina avellana (Chilean hazel), left, Quercus robur (English oak), top, Araucaria araucana (monkey puzzle), right, Cornus officinalis (Cornelian cherry), centre.
Gaultheria shallon (salal berry) seedlings.
Gaultheria shallon (salal berry) seedlings.
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Woodchip path with white clover ground cover fixing nitrogen and providing perennial chook food and bee forage.
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Cape gooseberry, poroporo, hardy kiwi, goji.
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Elaeagnus ebbingei.
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Young tamarillo.
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Medicago arborea (tree medic) and raspberries.
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Autumn shade.
Zingiber mioga (Japanese ginger).
Zingiber mioga (Japanese ginger).
Yams.
Yams.
'Oamaru red' gooseberry. This plant never had the lower buds pinched off when it was a cutting so it has always suckered and spread low. Much of the fruit on the lower branches rotted on the ground. I have pruned the suckers and low branches in mid-summer for the last two years to allow a more upright and accessible bush. Winter pruning in the same areas will only stimulate vigorous regrowth.
‘Oamaru red’ gooseberry. This plant never had the lower buds pinched off when it was a cutting so it has always suckered and spread low. Much of the fruit on the lower branches rotted on the ground. I have pruned the suckers and low branches in mid-summer for the last two years to allow a more upright and accessible bush. Winter pruning in the same areas will only stimulate vigorous regrowth.
Blackberries.
Blackberries.
Pink flowering elder.
Pink flowering elder.
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Elaeagnus, apple, herbs.
Kale seed crop.
Kale seed crop.
Mixed heritage apples.
Mixed heritage apples.
Ugni molinae berries trailing over from bathtub.
Ugni molinae berries trailing over from a bathtub.
Extra warmth and reflection from the house and the grapevine says thankyou.
Extra warmth and reflection from the house and the grapevine says thank you.
Mid garden.
Mid garden.
Feijoa 'tagan' - heavy crop again this year, they usually begin dropping late in May.
Feijoa ‘Tagan’ – heavy crop again this year, they usually begin dropping late in May.
Tydeman's late orange apple.
Tydeman’s late orange apple.
Rhode island red chooks under a watchful eye.
Rhode island red chooks under a watchful eye.
Temporary chicken run under dalmatian kale and apricot.
Temporary chicken run under dalmatian kale and apricot.
Cape gooseberry, parsley, borage coming up through white clover.
Cape gooseberry, parsley, borage coming up through white clover.
White clover.
White clover.

Spring 2014, Summer 2015

 

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Haskap berries, early December. The first of any of our fruits.
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Gooseberries are next to ripen, usually the week around the summer solstice.
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Potatoes coming up either side of a contour path/swale.
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Kate harvesting nettle late in the spring.
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Anne with one of the self-seeded ‘cocarde’ lettuces.
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Goji berries early in January.
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Yams, kale, japanese ginger, raspberries, feijoas, grapes…
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Fan-trained peach
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Kiwifruit mid January
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‘Tydeman’s late orange’ apple
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‘Egremont russet’ apple
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‘Liberty’ apple
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Blackberry
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‘Albany surprise’ grape
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Actinidia arguta – ‘hardy kiwi’ with cape gooseberry and Psidium cattleianum – ‘strawberry guava’ underneath
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Cabbages and collard greens beneath Moorpark apricot, Jerusalem artichoke and plum rootstock
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Aronia melanocarpa – ‘chokeberry’. These turn almost black when ready to eat.
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Fennel and lemon balm lining a path
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Merton russet espalier apple
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Tomatillo flowering beside lettuce and rocket
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Rear garden from the first floor

 

October 2014

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Apple espalier. In late winter/very early spring cut the tree two or three inches below the level you require the lowest branching (in this case last year). As the tree grows, tie in one vertical and two horizontals. Extra growth ¬†where you don’t need it can either be pinched out early on or left till mid/late summer for a ‘summer prune’, when it can be cut back to a couple of buds (an inch or so) with the hope that next year it will be a fruiting spur. In the second year repeat the process for the next level of branching. The late winter prune encourages vigorous growth and branching whilst the summer prune limits growth (you are removing the solar panels of the tree!) and can help generate fruiting wood for the future. Adjust these ideas as needed to suit different shapes and situations.
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Narrow bed on the side entry: orach, garlic, Egyptian walking onions, tall sugar snap type peas
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Fluff monster
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Sweet cicely, lovage and evergreen creeping comfrey beneath Wilson’s early plum
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Lonicera caerulea. ‘Haskap’ berry fruiting in its second year
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Haskap berries under way
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Immature green sweet cicely seeds are delicious, they have an intense aniseed flavour and like the name suggests – are sweet. The leaves are also edible with a similar flavour
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A grape making a start up the wire in its second year
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A bathtub of strawberries with a fitted frame for either a plastic cloche or bird netting. Made from bicycle rims cut in half and scrap wood
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Fan-trained greengage plum above boysenberry and sweet cicely
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Scarlet runner beans regrowing from the lower section. These act as a barometer of sorts to gauge the appropriate time to plant other frost tender annuals like zucchini and tomato seedlings. When the greening appears it’s about that time
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Elaeagnus x ebbingei. Evergreen, fast growing nitrogen fixer and edible fruits. There is some mystery about when and how it fruits. Some suggest it needs the presence of its parents (it is a hybrid of pungens and macrophylla), others claim it can fruit in isolation from both. I am growing some Elaeagnus multiflora as a more reliably self-fertile replacement if necessary. E. multiflora (goumi) is deciduous with tasty fruits as well
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Blackbird
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Aronia melanocarpa flowers. Black chokeberry – touted as a new ‘superfood’, the chokeberry has a long history with some peoples indigenous to North America. The berries are quite dry to the mouth but I think they have an excellent taste. Great for smoothies, juices, stewed fruit etc